Back-to-basics beat the palaces...

Tuesday 25th

After breakfast in bed, of toast with strawberry jam and coffee, Akatsi was our first stop – nothing worth mentioning there.

Visited a project at Xayi – a 6km drive down one of the worst roads we've experienced so far, to a hut with photos of sites to be seen in the area. Like baobab trees... snakes... birds.... sunsets.... that was about it, actually. I didn't get much info on the place, I was sitting outside watching a mad hen run round and round a tree...

Sogakape didn't have much; we wanted to get to Ada Foah as soon as we could to find our paradise for the next three days. In retrospect we should have settled for The Holy Trinity, a bright green health spa which offers everything from massages and yoga to dental work and plastic surgery! The rooms were good, not too expensive, and it was on the Volta River with good views.

It was getting late and we still hadn't found a hotel... everything we'd seen was pretty awful. We eventually decided to splurge, and stay at the Manet Hotel, for 80USD per room – way beyond our price range but as I said, we were desperate! We had been there earlier to get notes for Kim's book, and the manager had seemed reasonably obliging, when we eventually got to speak to him, that is. The front-line staff just looked at us gormlessly when we asked to see him, by name, as prearranged by Kim via email.

But when we returned to book a room, the attitude of the front-desk people was so awful that we just left! I had to leave a parting shot, “We need to stay somewhere that has good service, for the book we are writing.” Not that they cared.... I may as well said "I like the colour red" in Italian...

I had spotted a little signboard down the road pointing to Mayekom Guest House, so we investigated, and were greeted with the biggest welcoming smile by Joyce! 6Cd per room – we had one each, and a really good supper. Joyce even put mozzie coils down under our table for us so at least our feet were saved from the little buggers...! The accommodation was very basic – a bed with a ditch in the middle of it, a fan, and one toilet/shower room for the whole place.

We met some Maranatha Beach Camp volunteers from Australia and Northern Ireland (identified by their yellow Maranatha T-Shirts). Chatted a bit, then organised for a boat to come and pick us up first thing the next morning. Maranatha is run by the same guy, Joe, as Emancipation beach. The proceeds from guests go straight to a school set up next door. The volunteers are the teachers.

I was woken up at 3am, thinking someone had left a tv on rather loud, and there was a discussion going on between some very pompous African politicians. This guy was trying to get a word out and was battling... he kept getting as far as "The.... eh............ The.... eh.......... The ......eh....." over and over, til I realised that even a doddering old fool couldn't be that bad and decided that it must be the bullfrog outside my window. My word..... did it go on and on! And then it was joined by others and they had a great debate out there! Had internet connection on my phone, and couldn't resist putting in a Facebook update about it. (I heard later that day that Bob Mugabe had been admitted to hospital in the Middle East, so it wasn't him playing out there in the swamps...)

Decided on breakfast before shower – I find that oats porridge warms me up nicely in preparation for a cold shower! I didn't bank on the weevils in my porridge though, had a serious sense of humour failure at that moment. Oh, and to make things worse, the ants attacked my M&Ms!!!!! Disaster! Ok so temptation had got the better of me, clearly, and they would have melted anyway, so I just had a few... i really was going to take the rest home if they didn't melt..... So I went to the little shop next door and bought some ginger biscuits and peanuts as an attempt at consolation...

Called for our boat taxi, "We'll be there to pick you up in 5 minutes" was the reply. Well, as we all know, time in Africa moves really slowly... so an hour later we were on our way. A short walk to the river bank, and onto a brightly coloured wooden motor boat. An invitation from the driver (is that what you call the guy who starts up the engine and steers?) to cuddle up next to him, which I felt only proper to refuse, and we set off. We phut-phut-phutted out into the middle of the river, passing huge holiday mansions with yachts right next door to poor villages of straw houses and broken down but brightly coloured fishing boats. It just left me cold, actually, the wealth flaunted next to the poverty.

Ten minutes later, and we pulled up onto the beach of the Maranatha Beach Camp. That's it, a beach, palm trees, and grass huts. Oh, and a bar... and a compost toilet with a pretence of a door, and a closed off area with a bucket for washing..... Oh yay, yet another day of feeble hygiene attempts! The kind of place I would have been very excited about staying at for a long weekend with a group of friends... back in my twenties! I must be after a different sort of excitement now.

Sleeping quarters are a hut (sporting the flag of different country on each door), containing a bed with a lumpy mattress, and a mosquito net. Sand floors. Perfect for the surroundings.

I would recommend a stay there, definitely! The proceeds are given straight to the little school that has been set up on the campsite, and the volunteers are the teachers. We met one of them this evening – I didn't get her name, but she's a 20 year old twin, from Scarborough, UK, who is studying law at Newcastle. She wanted to give her time and she found an agency that doesn't charge the volunteers a fortune, and came here for five weeks.

A few more guests arrived, I think they're Spanish. Early night, early rise (it's a long walk to the toilet, in the dark, so was waiting for sunrise. Ever heard crabs scratching away at your door, walls and bed posts??).

Weavers and volunteers, breakfast and M&Ms

The agenda: Dan at the weavers project, and hotels.

Kpetoe village first, to meet with a Peace Corp volunteer, Dan. Dan is working with the kente weavers in a huge shed, set up with about 20 weaving posts (I am sure there is actually a name for them!) Even Dan has one of his own, and he lets us give it a go.

I'll try to describe the setup in case I don't get to upload a pic! Sit on the stool part of a wooden contraption not dissimilar to the old fashioned fairy tale weaving loom minus the spinning bit. About 10 rows of thread is strung from the base to the top of the contraption which fits almost against the tummy. The toes of each foot grab onto a cotton reel on a string, and pull down on them, as the hands pass the spool from left to right. Make any sense? Took me a while to figure out which foot to lower when, but I did seem to add a couple of rows!

Once I've had a look at the photos I may redo the above description... although Kim just gave it the thumbs up!

On second thoughts, after looking at the photos, I think I'll quote one of the tourism books here:
        "The Loom
        Reputed to be the most colourful in Africa and the most expensive garment, it is noteworthy that "Kente" is woven on ancient handlooms. The traditional Ghanaian loom is designed on the same line as the pre-industrial European types but operated with the hands and feet.
        "The needles, which tread the wrap, are placed between the toes. A shuttle passed from the left hand to the right hand in deft movement inserts the weft. Simultaneous with the action comes the "kente" looms music, a well known squeaky "kro-hin-kro" ... "kro-hin-kro". This rhythm is made by the reverberating shuttles as they entwine the coloured yarns smoothly over one another to produce the dazzling double-weave strips of cloth, eight feet long by four inches wide. The strips are sown together make the required cloth sizes..."

Mmm.... maybe I should leave descriptions to the professionals....

Dan had a fellow Peace Corp volunteer visiting him for a bit. Stefan is a teacher in a school in the Eastern Region, teaching Maths, Science and Computers. Of course I had to put him in touch with Stephen and Yao – I really do hope he makes contact with them!.

Both boys are from Michigan USA, and are on a 2 year stint. Dan as a business advisor and Stefan as a high school teacher.

Dan's (completely unbiased) comment is that Kpetoe is the best place to buy the woven cloth – 4cd as opposed to the 7cd we paid elsewhere!

Dan invited us back to his place for breakfast – he makes the best egg sandwich in Africa! He had a friend visiting from the States recently, who had left him with enough home goodies for him to open a store! He gave us each a bag of peanut butter M&Ms, and cashews. I'll (try) keep the sweets for home, as I know the boys and Mum haven't tasted them before either. Dan's a good guy to know.. I wish he was coming with us!

Later we headed off to Afloa, which is a noisy, dirty border town so we left as soon as we could. Keta was ok – a beach town. The Peace Corp people had recommended Emancipation Beach (behind the old broken down Danish Fort) as a fun spot to stay. But it was too much of a work in progress for us! No loo, no water, but pretty, with potential. So back to the least bad of the hotels we'd seen – Twins Hotel. The niece of the twins, Joyce, took us in and then joined us for supper at Happy Corner. I like her... she asked for my email address so I hope she writes... she's at college in Ho, just helps out at the hotel during her holidays.

An Aside: People we have met so far:

Amber, Kate and Paulina, at the Fesi Shed (a pottery project) in Kpando.
All three are from the States; Kate and Paulina just visiting for two weeks, to do a bit of community work. Although they are the first to admit that they are fully aware that they haven't helped a bit! They have enjoyed the experience though, and their pottery skills have improved... the local women have been keen teachers.

Kate is a Marketing Manager at Johnsons & Johnsons, (she was in Cape Town in 2007 to run the Two Oceans half marathon!). She is Belgian, but grew up in America. She stays somewhere close to New York – I seem to think New Jersey; is that anywhere near NY? Will have to look that up too when I get home! Or I can ask Stephen – he's from NY.

Paulina (aka Pollyanna!) is lovely – cheerful, funny, has a crush on every cute guy she meets, regardless of race or country of origin! She is a born comedian, and had us in stitches with a story about the length of the church services in Ghana.

Amber is on a two year contract, also an American. She is here as a business advisor, and has almost reached her halfway point. She lives in a women's compound, her comment being "you can't be fussy" so I guess it's not too easy. When she arrived at the the potters shed, the locals were charging next to nothing for their wares so the first thing Amber did was put their prices up! And taught them about customer service and other business skills.

Patrick, our driver. What a guy! He's helpful, protective, clever and fun... and a careful driver! He plans to come to Cape Town in October 2010, so I will mail him a backbacker's guide and any other info I can think of. Patrick Dotse, of Alabama Car Rentals. Comes highly recommended by me!! Here's Patrick and me taking a break on the banks of the Volta River....


Jacques – the beautiful blonde blue-eyed Belgian boy who runs the fish farm on the banks of the Volta Lake. Oh wow! Not what I was expecting to find in the middle of nowhere! Literally, we hadn't seen another car for miles! He is wanting to start up a hotel with horses, hikes, fishing, canoes, bird watching – the farm overlooks the Volta Lake and the views are incredible. I hope he makes it a success!


Adi – of Adi Lake resort. He and his wife used to own the whole of the Abadi Idyll Resort, but they have recently divorced and split the property. So Adi has the newly named Adi Lake Resort, and his ex-wife runs the Babs Hill Resort, up on the hillside. Shady and cool, under the trees, a very relaxing spot, and she is of course lovely, in spite of her ex husband! He is an ageing overweight shirtless old German who clearly thinks he has a way with women! (Quite possibly he does?) He has a lovely resort, would do nicely in Knysna, but it has none of the touches that one would expect (like good food and clean toilets, for starters!)


Bernhard & Sabine of Wli Falls Resort. "The German Couple Will Welcome You" is what the signpost down the road says, and they certainly do! Bernhard was a bus driver, and Sabine a physiotherapist in Germany, when they headed off on a road-trip through Africa, in a camper van complete with shower and loo. They didn't get any further than Wli Falls, and I can understand why! Bernhard later went back to Germany to fetch the little one-seater Nissan Micra that they now drive – he drove it all the way to Wli! These two made an impression, they are a lovely couple.


Stephen and Yao – Tech4Ghana. Yao is a Ghanian who I think used to work in IT in Accra, and has bought a pice of land running from next door to the Wli Falls Resort, up to the waterfall. He is trying to replant the rainforest which is being cut down tree by tree, by chainsaw bearing locals. It's traumatic – the sound of those saws starting up at the crack of dawn... so he's planting more trees, as well as a rice paddy, pawpaws, cocoa, coffee, tomatoes and herbs. The main house he and Stephen are planning to do up a bit so that volunteers at the computer school can stay there. I think there was talk of an upstairs movie house too?

Waterfall walk - Sunday 23rd August

At last – did the waterfall walk! Stephen and Yao came with me, and it was well worth the blisters. What a sight! Yao had the camera, and took videos of the falls themselves, but it was so wet and windy from the force of the water that he had to back off.

The two guys swam, but couldn't stand under the waterfall as the pressure was too high, it has been raining a lot recently.

Snacks consisted of bananas spread with peanut butter – something I would never have thought of but so yummy!

Quick lunch – a shared sandwich, then off the Ho Hoi to get a taxi. The computer boys gave me a lift and made sure I got onto the right minibus.

About an hour later, I was still sitting at the taxi rank, and suddenly a huge argument broke out in the taxi and just outside. I think it probably had to do with finding the last two passengers needed before we could leave – next thing someone found us a nun and a preacher to fill the seats, they led a quick prayer, and then we were off! For fifteen minutes, that is, we had to pull over because the back door flew open....

Eventually, 2 hours later, got to the Ho taxi rank, and Patrick was waiting for me there. Short drive through quite a large town, to Hotel Stephens. Luxury! Hot shower, big room... went to the White House for supper (which we ended up buying off the street as it was so much cheaper that way) and to a couple of drink spots to check out the vibe. Seeing as it was a Sunday night, there wasn't a lot happening!

More days at Wli Falls

Decided to stay on here for a few more days, to help out at the Tech4Ghana computer school next door to the hotel. An initiative run by Stephen Mohney and Yao Molato, it is a non-profit, non-governmental organisation completely funded by private donations. Kim will carry on and "do" Ho, and then I'll find my way to her on Sunday.

Mozzies are driving me nuts; the bites just get bigger each day. Huge red blister type growths all over my feet... yuck. And I sent my big bag off with Kim and Patrick, so no antihistamines, idiot. Just the cream, which soothes for about 30 minutes... and why has no one told the mosquitoes that they don't like Tabbard?! So I'm back in my room, ready to call it a night, because outside its too hot to wear long clothes, which the mozzies bite through anyway. It's nearly 8pm, isn't that a decent hour to call it a night? Last night was really late, sitting up drinking and chatting with the Germans and Stephen (NOT Steve, he pointed out) and Yao.

This morning I went into Ho Hoe with Bernhard, in his one seater pink Nissan Micra (maybe it used to be red). First stop internet café, but the electricity was down in that road so did some shopping instead. Supermarket, which was a shoebox-sized room, crammed with bulk-buys, from toothpaste to tinned tuna, matches to sweets. Bought some toothpaste, ginger biscuits and a pen... cost under 2cd.

Then off to the market! Just as I would have imagined it to be, rows and rows of tables under shading of some sort, displaying baskets of different colour beans and grains, clothing, fruit and veggies. Bernhard bought some vegetables from a lady who pops over to Togo to get her stock; apparently it is of much higher quality than the local fare.

Visited a friend of his – Martin, a Danish man who has had tried various businesses and doesn't seem to stick to any one thing for long. His latest is cultivating and selling the fruit of the Thaumacoccus plant (also known as African Serendipity Berry) – I must look that up when I get home. It is incredibly sweet, and it is used as a sweetener for diabetics and bubblegum flavouring. Grows like strawberries, along the ground, but the plant itself is about 1m tall, with lily-like leaves at the end of long stems. The actual fruit is red I think – it is just the jelly around the pip that is used.

Martin was put on pension at the age of around 25, he has an arthritic type problem with his hands so couldn't work. So he came to Africa.... he's now probably in his sixties.

Here's the Wikipedia description: Thaumatococcus daniellii is a species of tropical flowering plant known by several common names, including katamfe or katempfe, Yoruba soft cane, and African serendipity berry. It is known for being the natural source of thaumatin, an intensely sweet protein which is of interest in the development of sweeteners. This is a large rhizomatous flowering herb native to the rainforests of Ghana and surrounding African nations. It is also an introduced species in the rainforests of northern Australia. It grows three to four meters in height and has large papery leaves up to 46 centimeters long. It bears pale purple flowers and a soft fruit containing a few shiny black seeds. The fruit is covered in a fleshy red aril, which is the part that contains thaumatin. In its native range the plant has a number of uses besides flavoring. The sturdy leaf petioles are used as tools and building materials, the leaves are used to wrap food, and the leaves and seeds have a number of traditional medicinal uses.

Back to the internet café, where it took thirty minutes to reply to 3 emails, and update Facebook status. Then back to the lodge (minor detour to a mechanic, as there was an oil leak...)

I think the coffee Martin gave me was far too strong – my tummy is complaining! Or maybe it was the fruit... soon after my lunch (chicken, egg and cheese sandwich) I was feeling decidedly queasy.

Managed a couple of hours at the computer school while Stephen and Yao went into town, but young Gilbert had everything very nicely under control. Sixteen years old, he rocked up one day, and wrote a story! He shows great management and computer skills, especially for someone so young. He will go far....

Back to the lodge to start writing this... yes, so much for keeping a journal, I've had to decipher all the scrawl in my notebook to get some details!

Mozzies!!! Fruit salad for early supper (paw-paw, pineapple, banana, and something white – kind of pear or apple maybe?) then back to my room away from the mosquitoes.

Strobe light effect is bothering me – there's a huge fan below the main light. Lights off, watched The Notebook on my little notepad, had a little cry – that movie is just so sad!

Saturday – uggh my tummy is so not happy! Had some oats for breakfast (they do them just like Zacharia on Granddad's farm in Zimbabwe used to – why can't I ever get porridge to taste so good? Is it the fullcream milk that comes only on a farm, maybe?) Sabine boiled up some concoction made from mango bark, I think, with salt, to settle my tummy, which worked. I wanted to avoid the Imodium if possible, but I may need to resort to that for the 2 hour bus ride to Ho tomorrow! Actually I need to sort that out still – where and when I'll meet up with Kim. Patrick apparently told Sabina that he'll come and fetch me, but Kim is his boss so I guess it's up to her.

Haven't done anything today besides go to the computer school, send an sms to Kim from the rafters of Yao's roof (the only place with reception), wait an hour for the reply that didn't come, and then traded my book "We are all made of Glue" by the History of Tractors in Ukrainian author, for Adrey Niffenegger's The Time traveller's Wife. Loving it! The room got a bit hot, and the herbal tea stuff has fixed me so I'm back in the main eating area typing up more story.

Stephen has just popped in to say hi, and told me a bit more about his school in Brooklyn, New York. Located in the poorer side of town, he has a challenging job, but the fact that his school has an arts programme makes it one of the more popular choices in the area.

Biakpa - 20th August – Thursday

Off to Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary, where tourists are taken for a walk through the forest with a banana-bearing guide. He calls the monkeys (Mona Monkeys) by pushing his mouth out (yes, he now looks like a monkey) and makes strange screeching noises. Surprisingly that doesn't help, so he pulls out his mobile and makes a call. I am assuming he spoke to another guide... and around the next corner, there they are!

The monkeys grab bananas from his hands and are pretty cheeky (we have a go, too – at offering bananas, that is, not grabbing them!). My concern is that they will get used to people with food, and get aggressive like our baboons do.

Lovely area, and there is accommodation too. Primitive huts and communal bathrooms. Friendly staff, and some beads for sale. Bought a lovely necklace for Sue, but I may just end up keeping it...

Back in the car, off to Logbe Tota, which is a little village high up in the mountains, overlooking miles of valley and more mountains. If it wasn't so misty it would be lovely. Kim is very tempted to open a health spa as a volunteer project, and train the locals in massage and beauty therapy! There is a lovely waterfall nearby, with a good pool to swim in, but we didn't get to see it.

Sitting now at a hotel called Mountain Paradise in Amedzofe. It is in a beautiful area, overlooking the Kulugu River, but the woman working there is surly and rude, and the place is dirty, the toilets really gross. We were hungry by then so had spaghetti bolognaise (in this case Toppers with two minute noodles!). It was apparently the only meal that we would get in a hurry (i.e. under an hour).

Stayed up past 8pm for a change – made it to at least 10pm! Had a fun evening with Bernhard, Sabine, Stephen and Yao. Kim got herself a foot and neck massage!

Wli Falls, my favourite place in Ghana!

18th August

Booked in at the Wli Falls Resort (www.ghanacamping.com) for 3 nights. Paradise at last! We sat under the shaded entertainment area with our beers, looking up at the mountains, and the famous waterfall.

Well that was the idea, but it was actually raining so we couldn't even see the mountains... until a small area cleared, and wow! It has a Hogsback feel to it. Magical!

Owned by "the German Couple", Bernhard and Sabine Hagspiel. They packed up their lives in Germany, took a road trip through Africa, and got as far as here. And haven't left!

19th to 21st August

Great night's sleep, although the bloody rooster and sheep cut it short. Cold dribble hand shower, but that doesn't deter us, we love it here!

Especially after visiting all the other hotels in Ho Hoe (put a hot potato in your mouth then say "Ho Ha" - lessons from Sabine). We are staying in the best! One other halfway decent spot around the corner, where we had a beer (Guinness – horrible!) and found the hotseat for MTN to pick up sms's. The only spot in the whole area, beside in the rafters of the computer school house next door to where we were staying.... Had some yam chips with Shitor dip – small fish (like anchovies) with chillies and spices in a tomato paste.

Off to the internet café but there were too many people using it so no connection. I'm slowly getting used to being without it – I usually check emails at least 5 times a day if I'm not at the office!

Met Steve, an American teacher who has set up a non-profit computer school next door to the lodge. www.Tech4Ghana.org.

He is on the constant lookout for volunteer teachers, sounds very tempting; I could find myself settling here too!